Field notes

The Expedition Journal

Stories from the long grass — written and photographed by our directors on the ground in Tanzania, so you know exactly what awaits you.

Transfer guide · 2 September 2026

Kilimanjaro Airport to Arusha: the complete transfer guide

How long the drive from Kilimanjaro Airport to Arusha really takes, what taxis…

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Transfer guide · 2 September 2026

Kilimanjaro Airport to Moshi: the honest guide

Kilimanjaro Airport to Moshi is 41 km and about an hour by road.

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Transfer guide · 2 September 2026

Arusha to Nairobi by road: crossing at Namanga, honestly timed

The honest 5-7 hour Arusha to Nairobi drive: the Namanga border step by step, shuttle…

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Transfer guide · 2 September 2026

Arusha to Ngorongoro Crater: the drive, the gate, and the fees

The drive from Arusha to Ngorongoro Crater takes 3-4 hours on sealed tarmac.

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Transfer guide · 2 September 2026

Arusha to Tarangire and Lake Manyara: the honest drive guide

Real drive times from Arusha: Tarangire in 2-2.5 hours, Lake Manyara in 2.5-3 on tarmac.

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Transfer guide · 2 September 2026

How early should you leave Arusha for your flight from JRO?

How early to leave Arusha for a flight from JRO: the three-hour rule, evening traffic,…

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Park guide · 2 September 2026

Ngorongoro Crater guide: wildlife, fees and the crater-floor day

What a Ngorongoro Crater day really involves: the caldera explained, honest black…

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Park guide · 2 September 2026

Tarangire National Park: an honest guide to elephant country

Elephant herds, ancient baobabs and a river that never stops: our honest guide to…

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Park guide · 2 September 2026

Is Lake Manyara National Park worth it? An honest guide

An honest look at Lake Manyara National Park: what the $59 entry buys, why the…

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Park guide · 2 September 2026

Serengeti National Park guide: what first-timers should know

A plain-English Serengeti National Park guide for first-timers: the four regions, how…

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Planning guide · 2 September 2026

Tanzania visa and entry requirements: eVisa or visa on arrival

Tanzania's eVisa vs visa on arrival for safari travellers: verified 2026 fees,…

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Planning guide · 2 September 2026

Tipping on a Tanzania safari: who, how much, and when

Who to tip on a Tanzania safari and how much: guide rates, camp tip boxes, USD note…

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Planning guide · 2 September 2026

Tanzania vs Kenya safari: an honest answer from Arusha

Tanzania or Kenya for your safari?

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Planning guide · 2 September 2026

Safari then Zanzibar: combining bush and beach properly

How to combine a Tanzania safari with Zanzibar: why the bush comes first, flight…

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Planning guide · 2 September 2026

Safari photography tips: getting the shot without missing the moment

Honest safari photography tips from directors who shoot professionally: the lens that…

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Planning guide · 2 September 2026

What a luxury safari in Tanzania actually buys you

What a luxury safari in Tanzania really buys: honest per-day tiers, where the extra…

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Planning guide · 2 September 2026

Solo safari in Tanzania: costs, safety and company

How a solo safari in Tanzania really works: the single supplement explained, honest…

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Planning guide · 2 September 2026

Health on safari: vaccinations, malaria and a sensible kit

The clinic visit six weeks out, the usual jabs, malaria tablets, bite rules at dusk…

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Planning guide · 2 September 2026

Is a Serengeti balloon safari worth the price? An honest answer

What a Serengeti balloon safari really costs, how the 03:30 morning unfolds, and when…

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Planning guide · 2 September 2026

The Big Five in Tanzania: where you will actually see them

Honest odds for each of the Big Five in Tanzania — which park delivers lion, elephant,…

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Planning guide · 14 August 2026

The best time to visit Tanzania for safari, month by month

Dry season, green season, calving, crossings.

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Planning guide · 14 August 2026

What does a Tanzania safari really cost? An honest guide

From camping trips to the Four Seasons.

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Destinations · 14 August 2026

Serengeti or Ngorongoro Crater — which should you choose?

Endless plains or the crater's Eden? How the Serengeti and Ngorongoro actually differ, and why the honest answer for most safaris is both..

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Planning guide · 14 August 2026

Your first safari: what a day actually looks like

Wake-up calls, game drives, bush lunches, sundowners.

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Planning guide · 14 August 2026

What to pack for a Tanzania safari (and what to leave at home)

The complete safari packing list from working safari directors.

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Wildlife · 14 August 2026

The Great Migration, explained: where the herds are every month

Two million animals on an endless loop.

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Planning guide · 14 August 2026

Safari with children: how Tanzania becomes the best family trip you'll ever take

Ages, parks, lodges, pacing.

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Experiences · 14 August 2026

The honeymoon safari: bush, beach and nobody else around

Why Tanzania is the ultimate honeymoon.

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Planning guide · 14 August 2026

How many days do you need for a Tanzania safari?

Three days? A week? Two? What each safari length actually delivers in Tanzania, and the honest minimum for the classic parks..

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Planning guide · 14 August 2026

Is Tanzania safe for tourists? A straight answer from the ground

Safety, health, driving, wildlife and solo travel.

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Kogatende · July 2026

Reading the river: how to witness a Great Migration crossing

A crossing cannot be booked, only earned — with patience, position and a guide who reads the herds. Here is how the wildest hour in Africa actually unfolds.

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Ndutu · February 2026

The nurseries of Ndutu: where the great cats raise their young

Every calving season the short-grass plains fill with newborn wildebeest — and the cheetah mothers and lion prides that depend on them. A month among the cubs.

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Tarangire · June 2026

Dust and giants: an afternoon in Tarangire's elephant country

Six hundred elephants can drink from the Tarangire River on a dry-season day. What it feels like to sit quietly in the middle of the procession.

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